Home energy
Understand your bill, cut everyday electricity use, keep your home warmer and compare heating, solar and batteries.
What do you need help with?
Understand my bill
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Typical bill at the current price cap.
Work out yours →- Why is my bill high?
Three questions to find what to check first.
- Bill from meter readings
- Is my Direct Debit right?
- Smart meters and time-of-use tariffs
- Why is my bill high?
Cut everyday electricity use
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Kettle cost at the price cap.
Check other appliances →Make my home warmer
270 mm
Recommended minimum depth of loft insulation.
Check your loft →Compare heating options
Explore solar and batteries
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From a typical 4 kWp solar roof.
Estimate your roof →
Tools
Energy bill calculator
Estimate your annual gas and electricity bill.
Calculate a bill →Appliance running-cost calculator
Cost per use, month and year for kettles to heaters, with your own rate.
Check appliances →What should I improve first?
Three practical priorities for your home and budget, with typical costs.
Get a shortlist →Home battery calculator
Could a battery without solar save on a cheaper overnight rate?
Check a battery →Solar panel calculator
Estimate how much electricity solar panels could generate.
Estimate solar generation →Heat pump calculator
Estimate heat pump running costs from four questions.
Estimate costs →Energy in your area
Local prices, networks and carbon data for your postcode.
Find my area →Guides and information
Warmth and heating
Solar panels and batteries
Tariffs and meters
More about home energy
Start with your energy use
Collect at least 12 months of electricity and gas, oil or other heating-fuel use. Record consumption in kWh where possible, not only cost. Costs change with tariffs; kWh makes one year easier to compare with another.
Look for:
- unusually high winter use;
- a high summer baseload;
- changes after a new appliance or heating setting;
- estimated rather than actual meter readings;
- electricity used during expensive time-of-use periods; and
- rooms that are cold despite high consumption.
A smart meter can make patterns easier to see, but the in-home display is not a substitute for understanding the tariff and annual bill. Check that the supplier is receiving readings and that day, night or export registers are recorded correctly.
A sensible order for improvements
1. Safety, damp and urgent repairs
Fix unsafe appliances, active leaks, defective flues, serious damp and structural problems first. Insulating a wet wall or covering a ventilation fault can make the underlying issue worse.
2. Low-cost controls and draught reduction
Use suitable heating schedules, thermostatic radiator valves and hot-water settings. Seal unintended gaps around doors, windows and service penetrations while keeping required vents open.
3. Insulation and building fabric
Consider loft, cavity-wall, solid-wall and floor insulation according to the construction. Check moisture risk, detailing and ventilation rather than choosing solely on quoted savings.
4. Heating and hot water
Once heat demand is understood, compare boiler optimisation, heat pumps, heat networks, storage heaters or other systems. Include emitters, controls, cylinders, standing charges and fuel storage.
5. Generation, storage and flexible tariffs
Solar panels, batteries, EV charging and time-of-use tariffs can reduce costs when they match the household’s demand. Model them after understanding the underlying use.
Get a shortlist for your home: what should you improve first? →
Insulation explained
Loft and roof insulation
Heat rises into the roof space, making accessible lofts a common place to start. Existing material may be uneven, compressed or interrupted around hatches and eaves. Maintain ventilation paths and take care around wiring, downlights, tanks and pipework.
Cavity-wall insulation
Some homes with unfilled cavity walls may be suitable. Exposure, wall condition, cavity width and previous alterations matter. A survey should identify defects and explain the proposed material and guarantees.
Solid-wall insulation
Solid walls can be insulated internally or externally. These projects can materially change heat loss but are more disruptive and need careful moisture, junction, fire and ventilation design.
Floor insulation
Suspended timber floors may allow insulation from above or below. Solid floors usually involve more disruption. Air bricks and sub-floor ventilation must not be blocked.
Windows and doors
Replacement glazing can improve comfort, draughts and noise, but it may not be the first measure with the shortest financial payback. Repair, seals, secondary glazing and curtains may help where full replacement is unsuitable.
Loft insulation: what to check first →
Draught-proofing without blocking ventilation →
Cavity-wall insulation: suitability and risks →
Ventilation, condensation and damp
Warm air can hold moisture from cooking, bathing, drying clothes and breathing. When it reaches a cold surface, condensation can form. Insulation may warm surfaces, but airtightness without adequate ventilation can trap moisture.
Use extractor fans, background ventilation and appropriate heating together. Do not block permanent vents serving combustion appliances. Persistent mould, damp patches or a musty smell may need professional diagnosis rather than more heating alone.
Heating and hot water
Set schedules around occupancy and avoid heating unused rooms more than needed, while protecting the property and occupants from unsafe cold. Thermostatic radiator valves control individual rooms; the main thermostat controls the heating demand for the system.
For a wet central-heating system, balancing radiators and reducing the boiler flow temperature where the home still reaches the required temperature may improve condensing-boiler efficiency. Changes should suit the system and hot-water arrangement.
Hot-water energy can be reduced by repairing dripping taps, using suitable shower flow rates, insulating accessible hot-water pipes and setting cylinder schedules around demand. Do not reduce stored-water temperatures without understanding hygiene controls.
Appliances and everyday electricity
Power in watts multiplied by time gives energy in watt-hours. Divide by 1,000 for kWh, then multiply by the tariff rate.
Cost = power in kW × hours used × electricity rate
High-power appliances are not always the most expensive over a year; duration and frequency matter. Tumble dryers, electric showers, immersion heaters and portable electric heaters can be significant, while devices left on continuously can create a smaller but persistent baseload.
The appliance calculator starts with example figures for common appliances. Change them to your appliance’s wattage, energy label figure and routine, and use your own unit rate from your bill, rather than relying on a generic list of “worst” appliances. A custom entry covers anything not listed.
Solar panels, batteries and smart tariffs
Solar panels reduce imports when generation overlaps with use. Batteries move electricity from one time to another but have losses and a finite life. Time-of-use tariffs can reward flexible demand but may charge more during peak periods.
These technologies work best when considered as one system. For example, an EV, heat pump or battery can create flexible demand, but competing devices may all try to use the same cheap period or available connection capacity.
A battery does not need solar panels: it can charge in a cheaper period and power the home later. It only saves money when the price gap is larger than its storage losses and you use enough electricity outside the cheap period.
Current help and grants
Support differs across England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. Check the official scheme for the property rather than relying on an installer’s advert.
Warm Homes: Local Grant — England
This can provide funded energy-saving improvements for some low-income households and eligible homes. Current headline criteria include a privately owned or rented home in England with an EPC of D to G and household income usually £36,000 or less, although benefit and postcode routes can also apply. The local authority assesses eligibility and suitable measures.
Energy Company Obligation — Great Britain
ECO4 has been extended to 31 December 2026. It obliges larger suppliers to deliver eligible efficiency and heating measures, but the extension is also intended to complete existing targets and remedy non-compliant work. A scheme end date does not guarantee that a new household application will be accepted.
Great British Insulation Scheme
The Great British Insulation Scheme ended on 31 March 2026. Do not describe it as open or direct users to a new application form. People with an existing case should contact the supplier handling it.
Boiler Upgrade Scheme — England and Wales
Eligible property owners may receive an upfront grant towards a heat pump or, in limited circumstances, biomass. See the heat-pump page for the current values and eligibility link.
Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland also have nation-specific advice and support. Eligibility, funding and application routes change, so link to the current official service rather than copying an old list of schemes.
Getting quotations and avoiding poor work
- Diagnose the building before selecting a measure.
- Get a written specification, not only a sales summary.
- Compare quotations on the same scope.
- Confirm which surveys, permissions and electrical work are included.
- Check installer certification where the scheme or technology requires it.
- Ask who provides the guarantee and what happens if the installer closes.
- Never sign under pressure or rely on savings that are not explained.
- Keep photographs, specifications, certificates, invoices and commissioning records.
Home-energy action plan
- Record 12 months of energy use and current tariffs.
- List comfort, damp, ventilation and repair problems.
- Check the EPC and building construction.
- Complete easy controls and draught measures safely.
- Obtain surveys for suitable fabric improvements.
- Recalculate heat demand before replacing the heating system.
- Compare solar, storage and flexible tariffs using the revised demand.
- Check grants directly with official bodies.
- Measure consumption and comfort after work is complete.
Common questions
What should I improve first?
Start with safety, defects and measured energy use. Low-cost controls and draught reduction may follow, then suitable insulation and heating improvements. The best order depends on the construction and occupants.
Is an EPC enough to plan renovations?
No. It is a useful overview, but major work needs a property-specific survey, design and quotation. EPC estimates may not reflect current occupancy or every construction detail.
Should I insulate before changing the boiler or installing a heat pump?
Reducing avoidable heat loss can improve comfort and lower the required system size, but not every home needs every insulation measure first. Assess technical suitability, moisture and cost.
Does a smart meter save energy by itself?
No. It can provide more frequent readings and make usage easier to understand. Savings depend on the household using that information or a tariff that rewards flexibility.
Is the Great British Insulation Scheme still open?
No. It ended on 31 March 2026. Existing applicants should contact the energy supplier managing their case.
Is ECO4 still running?
ECO4 is scheduled to end on 31 December 2026 after a nine-month extension. Availability for new work depends on suppliers, eligibility and delivery arrangements.
How do I know whether a grant is genuine?
Check the scheme on GOV.UK, Ofgem or the relevant national and local authority website. Do not pay an unexpected caller to unlock a grant, and verify the installer independently.
Will using less energy always reduce my Direct Debit immediately?
Not necessarily. A Direct Debit is a payment plan based on forecast annual cost and account balance. Submit accurate readings and ask the supplier to review the payment if the forecast no longer reflects consumption.
Sources and review information
Last checked 23 September 2026